(sorry for my english)
After more than 3 years, it was time for me to stop repeating that I would never be able to use one of the uncountable books of my library (Janet Arnold, Norah Waugh, etc.); so I took the bull by the horns...
After 3 days of patience, the help of my Casio Graphic and my old Epson Laser and also the invaluable advices of "la Couturière Parisienne", I overcame the Diderot's Stay according to Norah Waugh...
1st step :
enlargement to real size
2nd step :
put parts of pieces together
3rd step :
Take measurements, again and again :
- on each piece of the small template : waist, bust and back width.
- on your body (circumference and front / back): waist, bust, back width, front length.
- add the wished reduction - here 3cm - and the opening after lacing-up - here 3 others cm
- calculate gaps between small template and body measurements.
4th step :
Front piece modification
I had to add 1cm on bust measurement and 6.5cm on waist measurement.
To respect piece structure, it was not possible to add directly 6.5cm to waist measurement ; by adding 1cm on side and front bones, the distribution is more homogeneous (in red).
4th step : Front piece modification
The new front piece, once everything is changed : new boning placement, new tabs.
4th step : Front piece modification
Before / Changes / After
5th step :
Back piece modification
This time, I had to add 3.5cm on back width, 7.25cm on bust measurement and 6.5cm on waist measurement.
I choose to add 3.5cm to all 3 measurement on eyelet edge and the rest on side bones (in red).
5th step : Back piece modification
The new back piece, once everything is changed : new boning placement, new tabs
5th step : Back piece modification
Before / Changes / After
Fast made, with some metallic bones in the strategic places.
Really good try : nothing to add except...
Except shoulder strape ! The only piece that I forgot to enlarge : +8cm!
7th step:
Sew boning channel, all the boning channels, too many boning channels!
Back piece boned ; I managed to flatten it only after 48 hours under dictionaries.
Last Step : Pictures !
Last Step : Pictures !
Last Step : Pictures !
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