octobre 31, 2012

1911 Cover Corset / Brassiere

Thanks to Festive Attire and Jen's study, I have been able to make a beautiful cover corset with bonings, which give a few more support to large bust than simple cover corset.

Side back : 3-4cm missing



 When I tried the scoth-taped pattern, I had just one thing to adjust to fit perfectly, I was really happy !
















Front
Back

octobre 29, 2012

1911 Plain Skirt - "The Ladies Tailor"



I missed some bonings for "1911 Longline Underbsut 1911 Corset" so I have to wait my order...

All this time, and because my deadline is coming (remember Nov, 8th) I started a plain skirt yesterday.


 I choose a plain skirt from "The Ladies Tailor" of March 1911.

It was easy to enlarge, the 1st time I found it so easy in fact :)
 The first try of the real-but-mock-up was nearly perfect.

And I'm proud of the quite perfect matching of fabric design











 After 4 Harry Potter movies, I finished to sew almost all the buttons










At last, my first handsewn hem and a one-day-and-a-half-skirt !


I will try to take better pics later because now I have to start Jen's Cover Corset / Brassiere

octobre 19, 2012

1911 Corset - Day 3 & 4 [EN]

Day 3 :

I made a new mock-up with my fitting alterations : perfect !



Than, I finally found which fabric and trim I would like to use : the rest of my French Dress's mixed-silk.











And, at last, I sew both sides of the corset with "flat felled" sewing



















Day 4 :

I finished center front with the busc & center back with 42 eyelets (fortunately I have my lovely Prym Pliers)

Now I just have to modify boning channel position :
in red, the pattern boning channel placement
in black / white, the new position whished











octobre 15, 2012

1911 Corset - Day 2 [EN]


I had a looong but productive day today : scaling up the pattern and first mock-up.

1/ Scaling up the pattern with 2 measurements ; waist of course, in red and also hip, in green, even if it's not really necessary with my measure.

(well, you can notice that Center Back piece is upside down ^^)

I enlarge the pattern so that I will have restriction of 7cm (2.5") and lacing gap of 5cm (2")




2/ Tracing pattern on mock-up fabric,  with beautifull seam allowances !

It's the first time I use so "big" seam allowances (1") but I'm really glad of this, especially because of my "big blunder"...

Proud of my pattern, I sew my mock-up quickly, I add some boning channels on seam allowance and I try it.

Do you know the height of an accoutant ? it's to write "divide by 4" on notes and to divide by 6... :s
I miss 6cm (2 1/4") at the waist... *stupid girl*

So I need to unpick the mock-up, dispatch this gap and sew again the mock-up :/
Well, will see tomorrow...



octobre 14, 2012

Longline Underbsut 1911 Corset - Norah Waugh [EN]


It's funny that because I read so any blogs by English-speakers, it's sometime easier for me to write directly in english   ... as today !

So, for my new project, I've been researching for hours and hours 1910's corset and need to decide now on which pattern I'll use, because my deadline is upcoming (November 8th)

Today, I am left with those 3 patterns, which seem quite the same but are all different on several details.


- Festive Attyre pattern :
Festive Attyre Pattern & Result



 - Bridges on the Body pattern : 
Bridges on the Body Pattern & Result
 - "Corsets & Crinolines" by Norah Waugh : 
Norah Waugh Pattern & Drawing


I must be crazy because I think I will start with the Norah Waugh, even though it looks more complicated than the others, because my first (and only) scaling/patterning experience was with a pattern by Norah Waugh.


First step : printing and enlarging the pattern !

Vide-Grenier : J-7 ! [FR]

For English readers, click here !

Notre Association "le Ministère des Modes" organise, samedi 20 octobre, son 1er "Vide grenier des Costumés".

Après des jours de triage, d'étiquetage et de rangement dans des boites, je suis enfin parée et tous les sacs sont prêt à partir le jour-j.

Petit aperçu en image :

Du tissus, en veux-tu en voilà


des rubans et des galons ...
des boutons par ci, des boutons par là ...

et même des patrons ... !

un peu de lecture...

et pour finir quelques costumes !

















































Alors si vous voulez venir faire un tour, n'hésitez pas à venir pousser la porte samedi prochain !

NB : Ce qui ne sera pas vendu ce jour-là sera mis en vente sur internet dans les jours suivants (sur Etsy)

Flea market : 7 days left ! [EN]

Pour les lecteurs français, cliquez ici !

"le Ministère des Modes" association set up its 1st "Dressmaker flea market" on October 20th !

After days of sorting, labelling and puting all things in boxes, I'm quite ready for D-day.

Some pictures :

Fabrics boxe...


Ribbons and trims ...
buttons and buttons agains ...

even some patterns ... !

some reading...

and of course some costumes !

















































So if you wanna join, do not hesitate to come and push the door next saturday :) ! 

NB : All stuffs unsold after flea market, will be sold on my Etsy shop, just let me some days...